A day of exercise – 18th February

Position: Wineglass Bay (still wobbly)

After two days confined to the boat we were happy for the chance to stretch our legs ashore. Today’s forecast was for quite strong westerly winds so although we are keen to get up to Flinders as soon as possible we took a day off from travelling, and what better spot to do it than Wineglass Bay? After breakfast we inflated the kayak and paddled towards the rocks at the west end of the beach, not far from the boat. The beach is steep and with the swell running in the break is sharp and we didn’t fancy getting ourselves soaked. We’ve just had the kayak repaired as it sprung a leak during our last trip, so we were not happy to find that the pontoons were rather soft and deflating halfway to the shore! Nevertheless we found a weedy gulch and a helpful wave lifted us lightly onto a nice flat landing rock. We lifted the kayak high onto another rock ledge and let some more air out to avoid further strain on the seams when the sun’s heat expanded the air inside and then off we went for adventure.

The first thing was to try out Derek’s new drone. From a flat rock ledge (far from any other people) we flew it up and above the boat. This was its first proper flight apart from over the house.

That fun over, we backed our pack and climbed over the rocks to the beach, startling a few tourists on the way. The beach was sparkling white under a brilliant blue sky, and the Hazards, Mt Graham and Mt Freycinet shown in all their beauty. Lots of walkers had reached the beach by this time and we heard many squeals of surprise or delight as some raced into the sea for a quick swim.

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We took the track over the isthmus to Hazards Beach and were surprised to find the wind here was really quite strong – a testament to how sheltered is our anchorage in Wineglass. Hazards Beach too was really turning the views on, and we were again reminded how lucky we are to live on this beautiful island.

We chatted briefly to an elderly American couple enjoying their holiday, and then watched with astonishment as the Freycinet Water Taxi beached itself sideways and proceeded to offload its passengers into the shallows. They all struggled ashore thoroughly wet both from the paddle and the spray of breaking waves. The crew clearly had a problem with the anchor, and spent the next half hour pushing and trying to swim and lay the anchor off shore again so they could winch the boat off the beach. We hope they managed it in the end – they were still working at it when we left the beach to return to Wineglass Bay. On the way we passed a party who were on their way to meet the water taxi at Hazards Beach. We kept mum.

We recovered the kayak, pumped it up and paddled back to the boat. Again it deflated on the way. We have a repair job ahead tonight – otherwise that will be the end of our kayaking adventures for this trip. Our view of the kelp gardens from the kayak did inspire us to try some snorkelling, however, and when we got back to the boat we dug out our wetsuits and proceeded to squeeze ourselves into them. I’m pretty sure I’ve gained a few kilos since we bought a matching pair, and Derek has gained a little too. It took us about a quarter of an hour with much pulling and grunting, and a few breaks to catch our breath and wipe the sweat from our foreheads, but we did it!! After all that effort we had to swim a good distance to the shore.

We swam and floated over the amazing fields of kelp and weed in all sizes and varieties. Some of the kelp fronds were over 30cm wide. It was so beautiful to watch them stream out and back on the surges between the rocks. At one point we let a surge take us with the kelp over a shallow rock into the gulch where we landed the kayak. Beautiful little fishes, and a few big ones, swam below us in their underwater gardens. It was all too soon that we had to muster our last remaining energy to swim back to the boat.

Sadly it looks like the kayak is beyond our ability to repair, so we packed it up and stowed it below where it may remain the rest of the trip.

Worn out from our day’s activities we packed up all our gear and after a simple meal turned in for the night ready to head off at first light tomorrow.

Wineglass Wobble – 17th February

Position: Wineglass Bay (wobble, wobble!)

 

 

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As we neared the Dunalley leads we could see a convoy of boats just heading into the canal as the bridge opened. We hurried to catch up with them and tagged along behind through the swing bridge opening and along the short canal that joins Fredrick Henry Bay with the east coast via Blackman Bay lagoon and the Marion Narrows. Gliding through the canal we waved at the long line of traffic waiting for us to pass. Many people had got out to stretch their legs and watch the passing parade.

We motored slowly through the lagoon, past oyster farms where cormorants and gulls perched, following the channel markers.

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With such a high tide, and a string of sailboats to follow we had no trouble following the channel. The lowest point we saw was 2.2m on the final stretch before turning north-east to exit. There was a light north easterly breeze and a little bit of swell which made it a slightly bumpy exit. On the way we passed a surfer riding the breaks beside the channel.

We saw a dozen or more small boats out fishing in the Mercury Passage as we travelled north past Maria Island. At Ile des Phoques we went in for a closer look at the seal colony. Along the shore the seals lay resting or frolicked with much barking and yelping. The island is also dotted with cormorants and other shore birds. A flock of gannets took flight off the water as we approached and we also saw a few dolphins playing in the waves.

We headed on north inside Schouten Island, then through the Schouten Passage, where at least a dozen boats lay at anchor in Bryan’s Corner, and around the outside of the Freycinet Peninsula towards Wineglass Bay. About half way along this coast we saw a pod of dolphins approaching, leaping through the waves. They surrounded the boat, dashing along with us, underneath the bow, crossing sides. There must have been at least fifty of them, and they stayed with us for half an hour. What a thrill! There was a bit too much swell for them to play in the bow-wave as the boat’s nose was heaving up and down erratically, but they leapt right beside us so that you could hear them breathe. All around us they surfed the waves, groups of ten or more to a wave crest side by side.

The dolphins had all headed out to sea as we rounded Lemon Rock to enter Wineglass Bay. The swell was coming from the north and the bay is open to the north-east so the swell funnelled right in with us. There were two yachts anchored at the east end of the bay and one at our preferred choice at the west end. With the wind predicted to come in strongly from the west in the next twelve hours we chose a spot off the beach at the west end and dropped the anchor in about 8 metres, letting out all the chain and some rope. And here we have sat, wobbling up and down on the swell all evening and all night.

First we watched the stragglers of the day trippers arrive by foot on the saddle track, and with amusement as some braved the cold waters for a quick dip. A wallaby hopped on the beach doing its best to evade the walkers. As the sun sank behind Mt Amos casting shadows on the flanks of Mt Dove with the almost full moon just risen we sat on deck with a drink and cheese listening to the sounds of evening – mostly drowned out by the gentle rush and roar of the waves crashing on granite boulders and sweeping up the sand in wide arcs.

For dinner I cooked Teriyaki beef and rice, which went down well with a glass of red. Cooking on board is a case of trying to make simple but tasty meals. I have vacuum packed all the meat to avoid that nasty ooze you get with plain plastic bags (nothing worse than diving head-first into the fridge to wipe up a sticky mess), so tonight’s pack of beef strips was marinated in a packet of sauce, then pop some rice on the two-burner gas stove (set to swing on the gimbal), fry up some veg and chuck in the beef – hey presto! A tasty meal. Eaten on deck with a view to die for – what more could one want for a birthday celebration?

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Note: I’m posting this while I have connectivity offshore of Bicheno on Tuesday. I’m having problems uploading all my ‘brilliant’ video footage of the canal, Marion Narrows, seals and of course the dolphins. So you may have to wait to see these but I will post them when I can!

Casting off for the Furneaux Islands – 16th February

Position: At anchor, Murdunna (Fredrick Henry Bay)

It seems like we’ve been planning this trip for ages. The last few weeks have been a rush to tick off lists of jobs. And buy new equipment and supplies.

We are heading north, all the way to the Furneaux Islands. We’ve never sailed there before, having only visited once with our camping vehicle and three small children almost twenty years ago. This group of around 80 islands is a beautiful area to explore by boat. It does, however, hold many challenges for sailors. The Bass Strait is a submerged land bridge and, located in the Roaring Forties, strong winds and currents are funnelled into it between Tasmania and the Australian continent. This causes strong tidal currents, big tide variations and even underwater waterfalls where currents plunge down over the shelf. It is also dotted with islands, rocks and shoals, and a graveyard for hundreds of wrecks. Let’s make sure we don’t add to that tally!

Over several days we provisioned and replaced a few expensive pieces of equipment – the biggest being our anchor – upgrading it to a more reliable model recommended for its ability to bite. We also had to replace our generator after it seized up. With our new solar panels we shouldn’t need to use the noisy generator, but best to have one just in case.

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With a fully provisioned boat we cast off the mooring lines from Bellerive Yacht Club, which was buzzing with the activity of the Crown Series Regatta. Boats of all sizes and divisions put on a display for us as we motored over to Sandy Bay to fill up with fuel, and then began the trip down the Derwent, unfurling the headsail for an extra boost from the tail-wind. This dropped out near South Arm so we furled it up again and I made lunch so we could eat before we reached the Iron Pot and the anticipated change of wind and direction as we turned north near Betsey Island.

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See here for some video of us sailing.
It is lovely to be back on the water, leaving all the cares of the city behind us. The shushing of the waves and an abundance of sea birds – cormorants poking their heads up unexpectedly, little penguins bobbing black in the waves, short-tailed shearwaters rafting on the sea and capped terns diving and splashing – all entertained us. We passed a lone seal using his flippers as sails while he rested.

The tides are not favourable for us to get through the canal at Dunalley this afternoon. Our boat draws two metres and we need a high tide to navigate the shallowest spots at the approach to the canal, as well as the approach to the Marion Narrows at the far end of Blackman Bay lagoon. High tide tonight will be at around 8.30pm and the canal bridge only operates between 8am and 5pm. For a while we considered the option of sailing all the way around the Tasman Peninsula, but in the end turned north into Fredrick Henry Bay, deciding to anchor near the canal entrance ready to make the transit on the morning high tide as soon as our friendly bridge operator begins work in the morning.

So we’re now at anchor within earshot of the Arthur Highway and I’m about to bake beef puffs and vegetables for dinner.

1000 hours

People sometimes ask how long I’ve been sailing. It’s not something I grew up with, except from the outside; watching my brother and wondering. My life had always been firmly on land. It wasn’t until around eleven years ago that  my husband came home one day and announced that his best mate had taken up sailing and he was going to try it too. I quickly put my hand up as well and then began a period of apprenticeship on a boat called Trouble!

It was only a couple of years later that we decided to get our own boat, and we took delivery of Ariadne’s Clew in Sydney mid-2008. During the past nine years we’ve put a lot of nautical miles under our keel. Around half of that has been under sail, and the other half under motor.

Like a car, the engine needs servicing regularly, but unlike a car, you measure the service period in time not distance. Back in our marina pen after our night out, it was time to begin a much overdue 1000-hour service of the boat’s 3-cylinder 40 horse-power Yanmar diesel engine. We’re used to doing the regular scheduled services ourselves. Well, Derek usually tackles that on his own or with a mate. But this one is more comprehensive and complex. For convenience and to be doubly sure, Derek had booked a mechanic in months ago, but he hadn’t come and had’t come, and we were sick of waiting. We followed the instructions and, to be sure, we called on our friend Andrew aka McGyver, who also happens to be a diesel mechanic.

Remove the companion-way stairs to reveal the engine

Replacing gearbox oil after draining

Drained – filthy engine coolant and oil

By the time Andrew arrived we had done the messiest jobs – draining oil from the gearbox and engine, and coolant from the heat exchanger. We found the engine had been leaking somewhere, creating a nasty pool of black oil-sludge in the sump. After much siphoning, scooping, blotting and wiping we took a bucket full of waste oil to the disposal tank at the back of the yacht club and scrubbed ourselves clean in the bathrooms.

The saloon transformed into a mechanic’s workshop

Andrew assisted us to clean out the mixing elbow and seawater cooling pipes, replace the impeller… and so on and so forth until it began to get colder and darker and later… Ah the joys of messing about in boats. Not quite the sort of messing that dear old Ratty had in mind I’m sure.

A Night on the Town

It’s not often I get the opportunity to stay as a visitor in Hobart, to sleep right on the city’s waterfront without having to pay for a hotel room. When our eighteen-year-old son persuaded us to let him have a party at our house we decided to escape the noise (and our responsibilities perhaps) and sleep on the boat for the night. This provided the perfect opportunity to take Ariadne’s Clew over to the city for a night out. On Saturday afternoon, after bomb-proofing the house (removing Turkish rugs from the living room, and the prize bottle of whisky from the drinks shelf – oops forgot that!) we drove to the marina, hopped on board, cast off and motored across the Derwent River to the docks. The low winter sun sparkled on the water this bright winter’s day. On the way in we passed the Mona Roma (MR2) heading north for it’s final trip of the day, and the Spirit of Hobart, a boxy red and white ferry that always reminds me of a bath toy. We entered through the gap in the sea-wall to the Kings Pier Marina and reversed into one of the pens on the public marina just outside Elizabeth Street Pier and the Lady Nelson replica sail training vessel.

There was one other yacht tied up for the evening with three young men on board, and later another larger yacht arrived complete with large labradoodle, which quickly persuaded its owners to take it for a walk. The public marina has capacity for around five vessels of our size and another two larger ones, plus space for dinghies and run-abouts to tie up. It was the first time we’ve used this fantastic facility. Once we were settled we locked up and headed into Salamanca Place for dinner. Our first pick of restaurants were full, but we got a table at Barcelona where we ate a huge meal, rounded off with coffee and desert!

Eating at Barcelona and showing off one of the historic sandstone walls of Salamanca Place

Then it was time to head to the Peacock Theatre to see one of the shows forming part of the Festival of Voices, What Rhymes with Cars and Girls? We enjoyed the show – an entertaining light-hearted musical romance with two strong leads and a band. The plot was woven around the songs of Tim Rogers and performed by two talented young local actors.

After the show we headed back to the boat, which was warm and cosy thanks to our little diesel heater. Down below we played a game then watched the Tour de France until our eyelids began to droop.

Ariadne’s Clew on the Hobart public marina

In the morning we had a lie-in before heading to T42 restaurant for breakfast where we took a window seat in the bright morning sunshine. From our seat we watched the Lady Nelson crew doing a training session, and both our neighbouring boats as they prepared to cast off.

We checked with Ben to make sure the house had survived the party, then went back on board to cast off and head back across the sparkling river to Bellerive.

Leaving Hobart

Gears and Grease

When I say we have a yacht some people imagine my life is all sunset cruises, gin and tonic and feet up in the sun. Others just get nauseous at the mention of sailing. But any boat-owner knows that aside from a small amount of both of these, much of your time on board is spent on the endless maintenance tasks needed to keep it afloat!

Our most recent task was to service the winches. We have four of these on board; two on the cabin-top for handling the plethora of ropes that are routed here from the mast and foredeck, and two larger ones at the rear of the cockpit for handling the fore-sail sheets – jib and spinnaker.

These winches are two-speed, and geared to make the job of pulling in the various ropes easier – or even possible! This means that inside the sleek black body are a collection of gears, pawls, rings, springs and pins, all sealed away from the corrosive effects of sea and salt, and greased and oiled to keep them moving smoothly. Every two years or so they need to be dismantled, cleaned, re-greased, oiled and reassembled. The last thing you want is to be straining to control that spinnaker under twenty knots of breeze when the darn winch jams… things could get scary with a Chinese gybe (dangerous), or the spinnaker turning into a drogue anchor for instance!

So recently we spent a day on board in the marina up to our elbows in grease. First we dismantled the winches, taking a few photos as we went, just so we could remember how to put them back together, then cleaning all the moving parts to remove the old grease.

We sat at the cockpit table, which we covered in an assortment of rags to keep it clean, with a basin of soapy water, scrubbing brush, paper towel, rags and even cotton-tipped ear buds to clean between the cog teeth. A mindless and tedious task. At least the sun was shining, the wind wasn’t blowing and we could listen to the radio.

We had a half-time break, wiped the grease off our hands and ambled up to Abundance, a lovely little café in Bellerive just near the marina, for a restorative brunch and two coffees. We also went on the search for another tube of grease – a white version, so hopefully we’ll be grateful for this next time around.

By the day’s end we had four smoothly operating winches. One of the four had obviously had some seawater infiltrate inside, as there was evidence of a bit of rust, so our task was timely.  It wasn’t until we were packing up, however, that we remembered we should have cleaned the grease off with turps! It would have made the whole task a lot quicker and easier. Let’s hope we remember that in two years when the task comes around again.

Sunday in Surges Bay

On Easter Sunday we sought out a spot to try out our new dive gear. Instead of heading back to Ninepin Point Marine Reserve, we thought an easy spot for my first dive would be Surges Bay, a very sheltered anchorage further up the Huon River. Here Derek and I donned our wetsuits – an exhausting 20-minutes of tugging and squeezing for me (the salesman insisted this was the correct size and I admit, once it’s on it fits fine!) – and we hopped in. It took a bit of adjusting of our weight-belts to stop me bobbing like a cork on the top. Below the surface we were expecting more river water to mean more tannins staining the water brown, but what we didn’t expect was the soup-like quality with so much gunk in suspension. Visibility was only around a metre. We descended to around six metres but it was dark and murky so we gave it up as a bad idea. Next time we’ll find a spot with clearer water – and far away from any fish farms!

We spent the day chilling out. The wildlife was not so chilled out though, with a flock of at least fifty crows hanging around to hassle a family of sea-eagles taking junior out for a training flight. The caws and honks kept us entertained all afternoon and into the evening.

Next morning we dropped Anne and Andrew off at their car and made the long trip home, motoring all the way, with some assistance from the sails. Back in the Derwent we encountered the new fast-cat, Molslinjen, doing sea-trials. It powered past us doing 42 knots.

Resourcefulness, and a brief history of McGyver

Another aspect of sailing that I like is the way it forces you to be resourceful. Whether it is steeling myself to climb the mast to replace a light globe, like on Friday, or reverse-parking this twelve-metre long boat into our tight marina berth, even these small tasks can make me feel a great sense of accomplishment. When the weather is against us we know we can trust the boat but are always aware that something could break and we might need to make running repairs, or use our wits to get out of a tricky situation. Even with a boat as new as ours, there are always things to maintain or repair. This trip began with Derek diving six metres below the boat in the marina to recover a part of our barbecue that had accidentally fallen overboard at the end of our regatta fireworks night. That was a dive I didn’t volunteer to do! And it gave Derek a chance to try out our new hookah dive system in the sea. He retrieved the part, removing a small marine ecosystem from its bowl in the process, however the bottom had rusted through. This trip we have also had to replace two fuses, top up the fluid in the depth transducer and repair Derek’s glasses, which he accidentally trod on. There’s also a rusted nut on the dinghy’s oar-lock we are yet to tackle, and now the toilet has sprung a leak!

My friend Anne has been our regular sailing companion since we bought the boat, almost nine years ago. She has always been resourceful when it comes to catering, and usually comes laden with fresh produce from her garden, and freshly cooked goddies. Back then she was single, but she’s since added to her usefulness by meeting and marrying Andrew, aka McGyver. Andrew is a lawyer, but his skills include diesel mechanic (oh, so handy when you have a 40hp motor inboard), metalworker, lift designer and builder and general handyman – oh and he’s good company, and not too bad at cards and board-games.

Andrew earned his nickname during our first trip to Port Davey, in Tasmania’s extensive World Heritage South-west Wilderness Area. Derek and I had sailed the boat around this rugged coastline with a boatload of fit young adventurers (our daughter included) who then walked the South-Coast track back to Cockle Creek. A few days later, Anne and Andrew flew in to meet us on a tiny plane that landed at the Melaleuca airstrip. During the intervening days we had been battered by a strong easterly weather system – unusual for this area which is usually subject to strong westerlies. We had spent a few uncomfortable and frankly frightening nights at anchor in 50+ knot winds. Our bow-rollers were damaged by the anchor chain bashing back and forth, but more worryingly our inflatable dinghy had been blown over not once, but twice! The first time the outboard motor, which we had unwisely left attached, had taken a dunking, and Derek had pulled it apart to dry and clean its components. The second time we’d lost the two seats, with their covers, and half an oar.

If there’s somewhere you need to be resourceful, it’s Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour. Andrew foraged around behind the old house at Clayton’s Corner and before we knew it, he’d fashioned a new oar-blade from a piece of timber. It was just like an episode of that 80’s tv show, where McGyver can build anything from a piece of string and a rubber band to get himself out of a pickle. So the name has stuck and that oar was so good we never replaced it, until last Christmas Anne and Andrew gifted us a new set.

Yesterday we picked up Anne and Andrew at Copper Alley Bay, just south of Cygnet. Before he came, Andrew had cut out a steel disc to fit the bottom of the barbecue. It worked a treat, and a few hours later we were enjoying perfectly sizzled steak and roast vegetables cooked on our little Cobb. Followed by a few board-games and a round of cards, which Andrew diplomatically lost! And this morning he fixed the leaky toilet as well.

Morning Musings

It is early morning and I’ve come up on deck to enjoy the view. We are anchored off Simpsons Point, South Bruny Island. The water is glassy, and I can see the passage of the slightest puff of wind as it travels across the surface. Sounds travel from the nearby bushland. Occasionally a fish surfaces with a splash.  I’m reading when I hear a thrum approaching from the south. I turn to see a huge flock of cormorants approaching low on the water, their white under-parts glinting in the sun. The flock parts around the boat, then re-forms, slows and one by one the birds splash into the water close to the point.

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A movement in the nearby trees catches my attention. It’s a white-bellied sea eagle come to join its mate perched less than a hundred metres from where I sit. The two of them sit so still in the treetops that they merge into the grey trunks. I pull out the binoculars for a better look. It is so still I can hear bird calls from all along the coast. In the grass I see a tiny flash of sunlight reflected, perhaps in a bird’s eye as it forages on the ground. A snap in the tree-tops makes me look up and it’s a sea-eagle I’ve heard launching into flight from its perch. It soars below the tree-tops, perhaps surveying the water for breakfast, and alights in a tree further along.

This is one of the reasons I love sailing – waking in a still anchorage right in the middle of nature. We had arrived late in the afternoon and found more than twenty other boats anchored along the shoreline. This is crowded for Tasmania, but to be expected during the Easter break, as everyone with a boat tries to get away for their final escape before winter sets in. Despite this every boat has plenty of room and thankfully none of our neighbours were loud party-boats. Before dark I had an essential task to perform. Our anchor light at the top of the mast wasn’t working, so Derek winched me up to replace the globe. A better scenario than me trying to winch him up, and thankfully I’m not afraid of heights. The view from the top is quite something I can tell you – though I didn’t take a camera up to get a photo.

Soon boats are beginning to make a move, rattling up their anchors and motoring slowly away. We’re assured a stunning day on the water, even if we don’t find enough wind to sail.

Last Twilight for the Season

Autumn is definitely here, with the days growing ever shorter. Wednesday was almost the autumn equinox, and with sunset drawing the day to a close at around 7.15 we were in for a short race or a dark finish!

This race was the final of the season, and the final of the women’s series, with results only counting for boats with a helmswoman. I found myself in charge of a boat full of crewmen – I couldn’t convince any other women to join us for the race.

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from left: Ben, Lachy, Michael, Willem, me, Paul and Tim

With a third place in the first race (the second was cancelled) I needed a good place tonight to finish on the podium for the series. I was feeling more confident at the helm after the previous two races without Derek on board, so the pre-race nerves were less of a distraction this time. With Derek back on board, however, I was in for more coaching, and a lot of keen encouragement. I tried to get him busy on the main sheets, but he handed this role to Tim so he could keep close to my ear. The only thing I could distract him with was the role of photographer, which he needed reminding of, and only conceded once the sun was well on its way to bed.

Our course was Q (for Quebec – appropriate as Derek had just returned from Montreal in the province of Quebec!) – one large triangle travelling first to mark G (off Sandy Bay point), then to H (Howrah) and back to the finish at Bellerive. We made a pretty good start on starboard, then tacked and headed into the middle of the river. We were flying with a good strong breeze, and as we tacked down the river we were making ground and passing most of the other boats in our division. It all came undone, however, as we approached the first mark. The wind began to drop, and then I had to tack to give way to Wildfire, who sped past us as we tried to keep enough height to make it around the mark. With boats to the starboard side we were unable to tack again to ensure a quick and efficient mark rounding and as we slowed painfully, then finally swung around the mark we were at the back of the fleet of seven in our division. B***- bother!

It didn’t get any better from there. Though we kept in touch on the downwind leg to H we didn’t catch up, and we feared losing the breeze altogether as the sun steadily sunk behind the mountain. The breeze dropped down to six or seven knots, but stayed steady long enough for us to make it home – seventh across the line, and about the same on handicap (the results are not clear). That means no podium finish for the series either. Oh well – I promise to do better the next time!

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The last leg